live blade

Discussion in 'Pekiti-Tirsia Kali' started by equilibrium, May 17, 2012.

  1. equilibrium

    equilibrium New Member

    you need to cut things with a live blade at a certain point in your training.

    [video=youtube;2_1Vt_FSpfc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_1Vt_FSpfc[/video]
     
  2. jspeedy

    jspeedy Member

    I'm not going to offer any critique. I'll just ask for some clarity. I've heard to never draw a filipino blade as shown in the video with the hand grasping the same side of the sheath as the sharp side of the blade. The explanation I was taught was that filipino sheaths are designed to break away for a quick blade draw. If you wrap your hand around the sheath and the sheath breaks away you're liable to severely cut yourself. Has anyone else heard this?
     
  3. silat1

    silat1 Active Member

    That's true. Most of the blades in the Philippines have sheaths that will break away when contact is made with an object.. Usually the blades used in the provinces are made with sheaths that are wrapped with some type of cord to hold the sheaths together.. The older blades that I have seen were wrapped with strips of rattan and would fall away when cut through by the blade.. As far as grabbing it from the blade's cutting edge of the sheath, It is never done by experienced practitioners of the FMA for the specific reasons as above.. Proper blade training even covers this practice with the sheaths of the modern day knives.
     
  4. blindside

    blindside student

    I have several older blades that have leather sheathes rather than the wooden clamshell sheaths that are being described. Also many antique Visayan sheaths have a wood body but have a leather wrap around the throat of the sheath that is clearly not designed to break away, and many of those same sheathes are bound in metal rather than rattan strips.

    That said, keeping your fingers away from the direction of the cutting edge just makes sense.
     
  5. tim_stl

    tim_stl Junior Member

    I've heard this a lot, and I've seen a lot of scabbards, but I've never actually seen one that's designed to 'break away,' or even one that looks like it would. The ones I've seen match what Lamont described, and I've seen plenty of wooden clamshell scabbards bound by rattan.

    If someone has pictures or owns one, I'd be interested in seeing it.


    Tim
     
  6. blindside

    blindside student

    I guess I just assumed that the clamshell or sandwich construction that was bound with rattan was the "breakaway" model.

    [​IMG]
    rattan bound by wyldbio, on Flickr

    I could easily see that in the heat of battle, yanking this blade out of its sheath could result in a nasty cut as you might separate the top rattan binding and it bite fingers that are encircling the throat. What I don't understand is the idea that I would try to hit my opponent with my weapon in its sheath with the purpose of it popping open. If I can hit the guy with a sword in a sheath, I can hit the guy with a sword. I guess I can see it as a tactic for weapon access because of the design of an inexpensive method of sheath construction, but not that the sheath construction was designed for the tactic of weapon access. :D

    And just as an example, a sheath clearly not designed for being a "breakaway."
    [​IMG]
    brass bound by wyldbio, on Flickr
     
  7. NAGA

    NAGA Member

    Hello Everybody,
    Well I have done a great deal of live blade training, both drawing and cutting. If the blade is single edged and many of the sword blade types from the Northern and Central P.I. are, it is best too pinch the scabbard. What I mean by this is too not wrap your hand around the sheath (funda) in a full grip. It might be easier if I just post a picture later of what I am talking about. Also by Tortal family standards the video is miss named in that it is not close quarter cutting. Finally, my students at our tournament last year did an Espada y Funda (Sword and scabbard) form for the Sayaw division.

    Thanks,
    John
     

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